Meeting Mr Kim by Jennifer Barclay
Author:Jennifer Barclay
Language: eng
Format: epub
ISBN: 9780857653246
Publisher: Summersdale Publishers Ltd
Published: 2008-08-14T04:00:00+00:00
I referred to the monk’s handwritten directions and caught a bus to Kochang, then from Kochang to Puan, and from Puan to Pyonsan. I was falling asleep on the bus in the still-hot late afternoon as I saw what looked like Pyonsanbando fly past the window.
Jumping out at the next stop, I asked a group of teenage lads the way, and they pointed me back in the right direction. As I was making my way along the road, one breathless skinny boy caught up with me and said he wanted to help me. I declined his gallant offer to carry my pack, but happily agreed to have some English-speaking company on my walk. We continued along making pleasant conversation. His name was Oh Jung-seok, and in fact he wasn’t a teenager at all but a twenty-two-year-old student of Hotel Management at Cheju University. He had an endearing way of apologizing abjectly for his English, which was actually pretty good. I was the first foreigner he’d ever seen in Pyonsan, he said. I felt honoured.
At Pyonsanbando, Jung-seok found me a cheap room in a guesthouse right on the beach, with a window looking out to sea, the curtain billowing in the breeze. Perfect. Leaving my bag, I went back out for a cold drink, offering to buy Jung-seok one for his kindness. Nice as it was to be meeting people, I was really tired, badly needed a shower, and didn’t have the energy to chat. He said he’d be pleased to show me into Inner Pyonsan next day, and waved a smiling goodbye. I took my beer down to the beach, where the sun was setting, turning orange, then pink as it sank; there were islands silhouetted grey. I hadn’t heard waves for some time, not since Tokjokdo.
Back at the deserted minbak (guesthouse), I found the shower at the end of the corridor. The facilites were small and basic but clean: concrete floors, cold water and buckets. I opened the door of my room and stepped up barefoot onto the raised floor. There was a fan, quilts laid out on the linoleum for bedding, a pillow. The cell-like simplicity and the sound of the sea outside my window were calming.
Down the road were a few quiet restaurants. A friendly wave beckoned me into a place that looked expensive. But the people spoke English and understood when I told them I had little money. They cooked me a fantastic meal of steaming, spicy instant noodles with egg and green onion, and side-bowls of rice, kimchi, tofu and potatoes, and charged the tiny amount of 2,000 won when I left. In fact I didn’t have change so they asked me to drop in next day to pay, and waved goodbye, calling ‘See you again!’
I strolled down the beach, the sand soft underfoot. Campers were sitting around fires. Others were walking or sitting together, sharing a drink. A woman sat on a wooden bed, massaging her feet. The beach was beautiful, a bright moon shining on the waves and the stretches of flat wet sand where the tide had gone out.
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